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What about Thai Silk...
                      By  Sarittha Somsup Simakajornboon

                Thai silk is the one of the most valued and highly acclaimed fabric in the world.Many regions of Thailand have their own style.Especially in North east of Thailand that well known in the name of " Mud Mee" and " Prae Wa".

    There is perhaps no greater symbol for the beauty and richness of Thailand than Thai Silk. With its vivid colours and sensual textures, it embodies all the vibrancy of Thai culture and the grace, elegance and gentleness of the Thai people.

An ancient craft handed down from generation to generation, Thai Silk has gradually evolved into a wide range of patterns and textures, with different styles uniquely linked with particular villages.

Production techniques vary widely, some incredibly simple, others incredibly complex. Different techniques add different characterstics to the fabric but all variations share the same elementary qualities that make Thai Silk the Queen of Textiles.

In today's world of homogenous conformity, handmade Thai Silk offers a textural respite from mass-produced materials, helping to preserve and affirm Thailand's unique cultural identity.

Thailand's cherished Queen Sirikit has played an active role in preserving this most regal of Thai crafts.

For over 60 years, Her Majesty has championed the cause of Thai handicrafts, rebuilding links with Thailand's venerable artistic traditions and in so doing assisted rural communities towards economic self-sufficiency. In the process, through the establishment of the SUPPORT Foundation, the queen has helped promote the appreciation of Thai Silk far beyond the borders of Thailand.

In recognition of her work, Her Majesty was recently presented with the International Sericultural Commission's Louis Pasteur Award of her achievements in developing sericulture in Thailand.

HISTORY OF SILK

Archaeological discoveries in the village of Ban Chiang in the northeast province of Udon Thani have led experts to believe that Thailand’s sericulture history may be as old as China’s. An extensive burial site yielded evidence of a complex civilization dating back over 4,000 years. Ban Chiang people cultivated crops and produced ornaments and bronze tools. Excavations also revealed a cluster of unwoven and undyed silk thread. Similar silk thread remnants were found in the pre-historic area of Ban Nadi in nong Han,Udon Thani. Both discoveries history strongly suggest that sericulture existed amongst Thailand’s prehistoric civilizations.


Between the fifth and seventh centuries , The importance of Silk Road began to decline as sea routes were discovered that proved less hazardous, promoting trade between China ,Southeast Asia India and the West. Early trade along the silk sea route passed through Southeast Asia where Chinese silk and porcelains were highly desirable commodities Archaeological evidence suggest that sea traders had reached the early Mon settlers of Dvaravati Kingdom in Siam who controlled settlements along the river plains an the Gulf of Siam. It is highly probable that silk would have been one of the items traded rchaeological discoveries in the village of Ban Chiang in the northeast province of Udon Thani have led experts to believe that Thailand’s sericulture history may be as old as China’s. An extensive burial site yielded evidence of a complex civilization dating back over 4,000 years. Ban Chiang people cultivated crops and produced ornaments and bronze tools. Excavations also revealed a cluster of unwoven and undyed silk thread. Similar silk thread remnants were found in the pre-historic area of Ban Nadi in nong Han,Udon Thani. Both discoveries history strongly suggest that sericulture existed amongst Thailand’s prehistoric civilizations.


Between the fifth and seventh centuries , The importance of Silk Road began to decline as sea routes were discovered that proved less hazardous, promoting trade between China ,Southeast Asia India and the West. Early trade along the silk sea route passed through Southeast Asia where Chinese silk and porcelains were highly desirable commodities Archaeological evidence suggest that sea traders had reached the early Mon settlers of Dvaravati Kingdom in Siam who controlled settlements along the river plains an the Gulf of Siam. It is highly probable that silk would have been one of the items traded .

King Ramkhamhaeng of Sukhothai, Thailand’s first kingdom, founded around A.D 1250, Established political relations by sending a mission to China in 1292. Other missions flowed and returned to Sukothai bearing gift for King that include a gold-filigreed dress and silk fabric. They also brought Chinese artisans to improve the production of pottery wares These artisans may have brought sericulture skills with them

In 1296 ,Cho Ta-kuan, a Chinese envoy, was assigned to a post in Cambodia and spent much of his time in the great city of Angkor. He noted in his journal that ,through the Cambodians were not involved in the cultivation of silk ,Thai settlers were growing mulberry trees ,raising silkworms and producing silk cloth. Cho further explains that Cambodian women were entirely ignorant of sewing, dress-making and mending, and that the dark damask silks worn by Cambodians were produced and mended by Thai weavers. This record along with archaeological evidence indicates that sericulture was an established craft sukhothai people. Silk became an item of great value that was used for trade with neighbouring kingdoms such as China and Cambodia



 Sukhothai stone inscriptions record that after the harvest ,men made iron implement and women wove cloth the inscriptions also describe a five-coloured cloth believed to be silk, used for ceremonial occasions. In the early northern kingdoms collectively known as Lanna Thai which evolved at the same time as the Sukhothai kingdom, silk appeared in the royal courts the northern city of Chiang Mai and surrounding villages have temple paintings the depict costumes which appear to be made of silk

he 16th and 17th centuries saw Europeans voyaging throughout Asia and visiting Siam. By the time , Silk cloth was firmly established as a valuable trade item ,and it was bartered alongside other Thai goods including ivory ,leather ,acacia ,sapan wood, ceramics and pepper. Siam and neighbouring courts of Burma,Laos and Cambodia were renowned for their sumptuous brocades that dazzled the eye with glittering gold and silver yarns. Many silk were woven in India base on Thai designs and imported into Siam. Other Silk were Japanese, Persian and Chinese. Record from the court of Ayutthaya ,the capital of Siam from 1350 to 1767 ,explain the techniques of raising silk worms and Describe the abundance of the luxurious fabric , used not only for fine clothing but also wall hanging ,dividers and floor spreads. The leader of French embassy was delighted by silk sarongs of “an extraordinary beauty …. permitted to those only to whom the Prince present them.”

t is record that in 1608 King Ekatotsarot of Ayutthaya sent a Thai emissary to the Netherlands bearing valuable gifts for the Stadholder ,including silk fabric. Historical records mention that Persian ikat (Mudmee) worn by a Thai ambassador to the French court in 1685, was so admired that it inspired ikat style weaving and design at the great silk center of Lyon. Gifts to Louis XIV (1643-1715) from King Narai the great included costly silks. Unfortunately ,when the Burmese destroyed Ayutthaya in 1767, many record and historical details were lost forever

When Bangkok become the capital city in 1782, many Ayutthayan customs were reinstated.
For example, certain Thai silk designs indicated the rank and status of court officials. This distinction based on weave designs was practiced until the early 20th century. Sir john Bowring, a British consul based in Bangkok during the reign of king Mongkut (Rama IV) noted that costly garments worm by persons of high rank were woven in their own houses ,proving that they could produce high quality silk. In 1857,King Mongkut showed Europeans that the quality of Thai silk matched that of fabrics from the British Empire ,By sending Queen Victoria magnificent gifts including elaborate brocades ,a red silk cloth and gold sarong




otton was woven in the village for everyday purpose ,but special occasions such as ordination , wedding and festival required the use of silk garment . Despite the intricate role Thai silk played in high society ,a flood of importance fabrics including fabulous silk from China , Persia and Japan made it difficult for the local silks to compete. Thai sericulture remain a small cottage industry ,most active in northeast region around Khorat until mid-20th century

In 1901,King Chulalongkorn made an attempt to upgrade the local silk industry by inviting a team of Japanese experts to aid production. In 1903 ,the Department of Silk Craftsmen was established under the directorship of Prince Phephatanaphong. These early steps marked the beginning of rapid sericulture development in Thailand. Mulberry tree were planted in the northeast ,local silkworms were cross bred with the Japanese variety, modern spinning and hand reeling machines were introduced and traditional looms were replaced by more advance ones. Sericulture courses were taught throughout the kingdom. By 1910,over 35 tons of silk were begin export annually

 Procedure  of  Thai silk

The creation of a single length of Thai silk is an intricate and time consuming process. Due to Thailand’s favourable climate , sericulture is a year-round activity. After the rice harvest, the villagers of the central Plans and Northeast devote their time to silk production. Young girls are taught weaving skills by their mothers as they sit at looms beneath the traditional Thai wooden houses. Their exquisite creations may provide extra income or may be used in their own marriage ceremonies or for funeral rites, or donned during a festival to attract a young man. Weaving is a sign of maturity and eligibility for marriage
Silk cultivation is predominantly a cottage industry ,in which villagers have varying degrees of Involvement. Some grow mulberry trees and only raise and silk cocoons, other purchase the yarn ,dye it and weave silk to sell. A few take part in the entire process ,from the raising worms to the production of fabric

The origins of the shimmering ,exquisite fabric lies in a caterpillar that belongs to the insect order Lepidoptera , which includes all moths and butterflies. There are two distinct types pertinent to silk

: the Bombycidae , or cultured silkworms, and Saturniidae, The wild silkworms

he Bombyx mori of the Bombyidae family is the most common source of cultured silk. The worm is raised domestically, But only where mulberry leaves are available to satisfy its voracious appetite. The wild silkworm species, of which there are more than 500 types m will devour other varieties of leaves. More robust than their domesticated cousins, Saturnidae produce a tougher, coarser silk which is shorter in length , with colours that vary from off-white to beige or yellow. Wild silk is usually called tusser-silk .In Thailand,the two predominant Bombyx mori varieties used are the bivoltine , which produced the fine white yarn suitable for power-loom weaving, and the traditional hardy polyvoltine, which produces the irregular yellow thread suited to hand-loom weaving that is used in the creation of mudmee. Bivoltine silkworms produce two harvest a year, and polyvoltine an unlimited number.

he silk caterpillar goes through four stages in its life cycle: egg, larva to caterpillar, pupa or chrysalis and moth.

From a box containing 20,000 eggs it is expected that 15,000 cocoons will be reared successfully. To minims losses , the cocoons are divided into separate trays and closely observed.
In an effort to increase silk production and improve and quality of Thai silk, Japanese sericulture is being introduced under technologically advanced and highly controlled conditions.

Rearing of the silkworms determines the quality and quality of the silk, since they are fragile creatures that need cosseting. Silkworm keepers must enter ensure that their valuable charges are not only correctly fed. but also kept meticulously clean. Silkworms are highly sensitive to noise, odours and other factors in their environmental surroundings.

ature silkworm moths mate for several hours, and the female deposits 300 to grey pinhead-size eggs. Two or three days later she dies. During germination, the eggs require cool temperatures for development and warmer temperatures to hatch. Developing and hatching can take between 10 days and 10 months depending on climatic conditions. In Thailand, eggs kept at controlled temperatures of 24 to 28 degrees Centigrade take about 21 days to hatch, whereas eggs in the wild require only 10 days because of the warmer conditions

 

 

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